I’ve been meaning to share my memorable trip to Colombia for quite some time. This journey had a profound impact on my life, leaving me a happier person, even though the adventure has concluded. Two weeks in Colombia, beginning in Bogota, marked the start of this transformative experience.
Arrival and First Impressions
Our arrival on a Saturday around 7 pm, with limited airport internet and no roaming, led us to secure a taxi for around $8, which seemed remarkably cheap. An escort guided us to the taxi, requiring a short walk. Unlike the pricier options departing from the arrival terminal. We later discovered that even the $8 fare was excessive. Throughout the remainder of the trip, we relied on Cabify, which provided reliable official taxis and freelance drivers. This choice consistently kept taxi fares around $3.
Our initial destination was the hotel situated in the Santa Fe area. It’s important to emphasize that being proficient in Spanish is a requirement for successful communication in Bogotá. English is rarely spoken or understood, including by reception staff at the hotel. However ours was a 3 star basic hotel but with big rooms and very clean with breakfast included. When we asked about the neighborhood’s safety, the reception’s response was: “It depends by the hour.” Nonetheless, we embarked on an exploratory walk and discovered the first distinctive features of Bogota. Blocks with well-lit sidewalks, where people gathered to drink, were right beside sketchy & dark blocks. This alternating pattern persisted during our stroll. Additionally, while walking and conversing, breathing proved challenging. At the time, I wondered if this could be a sign of anxiety, even though I felt excited and well-prepared for the trip. The following morning, as I searched for a suitable route to run, I stumbled upon the fact that Bogota rested at an elevation of 2600m above sea level, thereby explaining the difficulty in breathing. Oxygen scarcity at this altitude was the culprit. For dinner, we discovered a nearby food place, where I found the most delightful Smoothie prepared with exotic fruits. This spot became a regular stop during our stay there.
Embracing the Sunday Morning Buzz
The next day, Sunday, jet lag woke us at 5 am. By around 6:30 am, we were on our way to ‘Carrera 10’, witnessing the city gradually waking up, with cyclists and joggers dotting the landscape. An expansive flea market, sprawling more than 5 km and resembling a web, unveiled itself slowly. We paused at a ‘Huan Valdez’ coffee chain that I totally recommend. Afterwards we embarked on a never-ending exploration of the city that had transformed into an open-air bazaar. Artisanal crafts, second hand products, diverse street food, and succulent, pre-prepared exotic fruits were abundant. Following this, we ventured to the Gold Museum and Botero Museum, both of which offered free admission for foreigners — a delightful surprise. Both museums are worth a visit and require around 1 to 2-hours, depending on one’s appetite for detail. ‘La Candelaria’ welcomed us with its street art, offering vibrant and colorful backgrounds for photos. We concluded our tour in a square teeming with food trucks, inevitably indulging in savoury snacks.
An afternoon of excessive walking
Wearied by the day’s activities, we retraced our steps back to the hotel, where the bustling market demanded heightened vigilance against pickpocketing. Later, in the afternoon, we started the search for local SIM cards. Since it was a Sunday, the only available option was a shopping mall. Despite the apparent convenience, since we didn’t have internet service, our decision to walk there for 40 minutes was not the best choice. We traversed neighborhoods of mostly one or two-story buildings with traditional architecture, but the emptiy streets created an uneasy atmosphere. Yet, we reached the mall, where contrary to popular advice favoring Claro operator, we chose Tigo, due to unfavorable service at Claro. Tigo’s attendant also teached us a local expression, “Melo Melo Caramelo,” that meant everything is great and/or in order.
Walking back during twilight, we took the longer main road, discovering charming neighborhoods, but also encountering a red light district within five minutes of leaving the pleasant area. Bogota’s unique blend of contrasting elements was evident in this juxtaposition — lively clubbing hubs adjacent to dim corners and family-friendly zones neighboring red light districts. This unnecessary walk back ended at the hotel, where after a brief respite, we went for dinner. The first proper dinner in Colombia and we ended up in a Peruvian restaurant. Portions were abundant, and individual orders yielded double servings, intended for a combined experience.
Unplanned Adventures and A Twist of Fate
The subsequent day in Bogota commenced similarly at 5 am. By 6 am, I went out for a run, completing my January 10K at a leisurely pace. Another friend joined us that day, so we did almost the same walk around the city, much like the previous day. However the flea market was not the same as the previous day, but smaller and calmer. We tasted ‘Chicharróns’ and I bought a handmade indigenous necklace, bartering a bit for a fair price. After that we rested a bit at the hotel.
The sunset plan involved Montserrat, and though we arrived at the cable car station on schedule, a substantial line compelled a wait of approximately one and a half hours. Nightfall descended as we reached our destination and pretty soon started to rain. After absorbing the panoramic view for about 30–40 minutes, we rejoined the line to get down waiting for another hour.
The subsequent day witnessed a change of plans. Despite our initial setback in failing to rent a pre-booked car due to the need for a physical credit card, we later discovered that it was for the good. This twist led us to the bus station, where we embarked on a journey to Pereira, in order to reach Salento.
